Solder the TWO WHITE wires to the ground side of the BNC. Trim the TWO RED wires to about 1/4″ and solder them to the center conductor of a female BNC. The TWO WHITE wires together, leaving an inch or so protruding from each. You have TWO RED wires and TWO WHITE wires. Refer to Sevick’s photo 2-E (or 4-1a_nøss.jpg, next page). After 1 turn, clamp the wire to the core with another cable tie. Go back to the bottom and start winding a second pair,Īgain going from the top of the toroid, but this time winding in a COUNTER-CLOCKWISEĭirection. Secure with another cable tie.Ĭut off another 18″ of the paired wires. Real small cable tie (I used one 3/32″ wide).Ĭontinue winding for 7 turns total spread out over 180 degrees. Sense, start winding the wire on the left side of the core. Insert the wires over the TOP of the toroid core, and, using a CLOCKWISE winding
Refer to Sevick’s photo 2-E (or the 4-1a_n0ss.jpg file accompanying this write-up), left side of
The R/S #24 speaker wire (278-1509), label the 5-6 lead as White, 3-3 as RED and 1-2 as Label the 7-8 lead as RED (colors correspond to the approximate colors of the wires used in Refer to the schematic (or figure 2-1A on page 18 of Jerry Sevick’s book “Building and Using You are supposed to use something that hasĪn impedance of approximately 2X the input impedance, and this was close. Impedance and came up with around 120 ohms. The reason I used the R/S speaker wire is that last summer Wayne (N6KR) reported hisĭouble Zepp with a R/S speaker wire feed line, and someone at ARRL lab measured the Of the 50-ohms I get on the higher bands. To 35 MHz but drops off a little at 3.5, 40-ohms with a 200 ohm resistor on the high side instead Work with, and maybe the FT-140-77 would cover 160-10. My 4:1 current-type balun is wound on a FT-114-43 core.
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